It’s a risky business model. But Filippo Cogliandro didn’t like what the ’Ndrangheta crime syndicate had done to his beloved Calabria. While inventing unorthodox recipes for seafood from the Strait of Messina seven years ago, he let authorities record the local mafia’s extortion visits. A couple of convictions later, he and his L’Accademia restaurant were famous, and he’s serving up his monkfish risotto and marinated cuttlefish to grateful diners. The “Octopus” syndicate is still in business, but the “tax” they collect is dropping as defiance among Calabrians dares to grow.