Upstarts Sniff at Stuffy Wine
There’s a guerrilla movement afoot among California vintners. In Pursuit of Balance, a group of 33 Pinot Noir producers from Anderson Valley, is championing younger, less alcoholic varieties — compared with classic wines made from fully mature grapes — and pooling resources to reach the marketplace. Their attempt to redefine how California wines should look, feel and taste is going down well, and IPOB wines are increasingly being picked up by restaurants and shops. But one influential critic calls them a “jihadist” movement for underripe wines, and they’re fermenting one helluva debate.