Today’s anniversary marks the loss of a staggering 300,000 lives. But the Caribbean nation of 10 million is alive and kicking. The Oloffson Hotel in Port-au-Prince, which briefly shut down its live music nights after the quake, is once again one of the capital’s most rocking joints. And in the streets, anti-government protesters are calling for a change of regime. Amid quake-induced hardships and poverty, Haiti’s mass mobilization is giving the island nation renewed hope.