Accept no substitute. That’s possible for gourmets, but not ordinary diners who can’t tell a worthless Tunisian truffle from the Piedmont variety retailing for $260 a pound. That’s where the Food and Health Crimes Division of Italy’s national police force comes in. More than 1,000 officers patrol the country’s restaurants, market stalls and loading docks for, say, Croatian truffles being passed off as the valuable Asti variety.
Does this affect other nations? Italian authorities uncover all sorts of fraud, from fake virgin olive oil to Möet-labeled rotgut so convincing they end up at major stores — and shipped across the Atlantic.
Read this OZY feature on the world’s most expensive fungus.